The body of the governor is another ‘casting’.
All parts are steel. The small soldering fixture was made from a slice of bright steel angle.
The arms were put in one at a time. The slot for the link arm is filled with flux to help prevent it from becoming too oxidised on the first heating.
The bosses for the gear shaft and link arm were done after the arms with a slightly lower melting point solder.
Clean up with a few needle files and some emery didn't take long.
Attached to its bracket a coat of primer soon brings it to life.
Before the gears are tackled the linkage parts were started. I decided to make the lower Pivot Block in two parts rather than from all out of the solid so began both blocks with reducing enough for two in the mill as one piece.
The bar, about 35mm long, was then draw filed to eliminate the machining marks. The file is a 4" flat #4 cut with the tang removed specifically for this type of op and for hand deburing. for this type of task I find it much easier to control than with a handle fitted.
The ends were squared and the two vertical holes were drilled and reamed the correct distance from each end plus a .25mm filing allowance.
The cross holes were then drilled and reamed, spaced equally about the vertical holes, the block being turned end for end set against the dead stop.
Despite a constant check for tiny bits of swarf on each placement in the vice the part still picked up dings - out of view in this pic - definitely not what's wanted as the surface gets smoother.
Next up was some means of holding it for slotting the ends. It could have been done in the vice but once cut in half there would be little held between the jaws so a small fixture was called for. I have three or four small blocks of steel like this that are ground square all round and kept for this type of requirement. They are a product of my working days and once used up will not likely be replaced. If you are in a similar position to get such blocks ground I can well advise to do so as they are so useful. The slot was milled to a good fit for the part - the two holes are for a removable stop pin - first and second ops.
With the part set against the stop pin a light clamping was all that was needed.
Ready for a deburr and cutting in two.
The ends were milled to length leaving a filing allowance and the ops repeated this time with the stop pin set in the second hole.
To keep the emery marks parallel to the part it was rubbed back and forth on 150 grit emery lubricated with paraffin and oil against a parallel. This op is continued on wet and dry paper down to 600 grit for a very smooth non 'polished' surface.
Two small filing buttons were turned up, hardened and the pivot arms finished off altering the shape slightly in order to make them look a little more convincing. I usually harden buttons as opposed to leaving them soft as soft buttons have to be able to roll to be effective in controlling the file.
See Part One here - Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6 Part 7 Part 8 Part 9 Part 10 Part 11 Part 12 Part 13 Part 14